The History & Fashion of Shoes

Shoes are a beautiful necessity of life; they have been around for so long that no one can say, with absolute certainty, what the first pair of shoes even looked like, but it is assumed that they would have been made from thick leaves or wood to protect from the rough terrain. Footwear is mentioned in the Bible, so it can be dated at least as far back as that, as well as other similar dated writings. What is known, is that today’s society has a love of shoes and the average person owns at least three pair; the norm being a pair of dress shoes, a pair of tennis shoes, with a third pair being either sandals, boots or flip-flops. While that is average, there are those who have a shoe obsession, and may own dozens of shoes! In the news, there have even been reports of women who own hundreds of shoes. It is clear that shoes have certainly left their print on history, style, and society.

Some people are very into fashion, and will wear whatever is in vogue at the moment; they will do so at the expense of both their pocketbooks and their physical health. To them cost is no option, even if their feet are cramping and their backs are aching, they must and will have the shoes that are most stylish, from high-end designers to pricey couture footwear. A woman may have started wearing 4-inch heels when they were young, and as an adult can’t imagine wearing anything else. Often such choices end with having to endure hammertoes and bunions when they are older, but even knowing that may not deter them from purchasing a smart shoe over a more fashionable style. Other people most concerned with comfort; they may say they like sensible shoes, and may even choose to wear slippers at times, but often they wear shoes of necessity, or shoes and boots that have either protective or practical use in the work they do each day. Whatever the reason for buying particular shoes; for practicality, sports, sophistication, or pleasure, one thing is sure; Shoes have transformed from simply a necessity, to a way of displaying a person's taste and style on their feet.

Middle Ages

Shoes worn in the middle ages were made of leather, that is if one could afford leather. Otherwise, they were made from fur or a felt made from wool. Earlier versions had square toes, but later versions were pointy toed and could be curled up at the toe. They were boot-like, flat and soft, but not inexpensive, so during the warmer seasons, most people would walk barefoot through the streets and marketplaces. In some areas, it was not uncommon for people to wear wooden shoes, which were basically two pieces of wood that went under the foot and up the back of the leg and than were wrapped in fabric of some sort. Other forms of wooden shoes, such as clogs, were also worn, but it seems that whatever they wore, most people were often never really comfortable in their footwear.

• Footwear in the Middle Ages- the history and development of footwear and cobbler techniques up to the end of the 16^th Century.

• History of Medieval Clothing- A history of Medieval Clothing and footwear include who wore what and the origins of some shoes.

• Textiles of the Middle Ages- Textiles were not only used for clothing, some shoes included textiles in an effort to make them more comfortable.

• Costumes of the Middle Ages- Novgorod, XV century – translated information on the clothing of women from the era, including a breakdown of the shoes they wore and some images.

• Rich East H.S. Fashions of the Renaissance Period, with sketches of the men and women's footwear from that period. The styles are very different than anything worn today.

1500’s

Shoes of this century were much like the shoes from the Middle Ages, but people were getting more creative with the appearance of their shoes. People began wearing shoes that made them taller. Chopines were the name of the most modern shoes of the day, and many of the shoes that came after were styled in a similar manner. Chopines were tall, up to 20” in height, and the wearer established their social status by the height of the shoe they wore. Status was also established by the fact that the women would walk with expensive canes, or have servants to keep them from falling off their own footwear. In some areas of the world, Chopines were outlawed because when pregnant women fell they were at a greater risk of miscarrying.

• Elizabethan Er-a Elizabethan Shoes, facts about shoes, how they were made and the shoemakers.

• Elizabethan costumer- Elizabethan Accessories – Section on the kind of shoes worn by different classes of people.

• Metropolitan Museum- The Chopine – A timeline, image, 5 thematic essays, and article about the shoes.

• Think Quest- A history of sandals, which also includes the first Chopines.

• Raised Heels- Research and construction of Chopines, and other raised heel shoes.

1600’s

In the 1600’s, shoes became even more elaborate. Instead of ties, high fashion called for fancy bows and puffy balls, which they called shoe roses. Historical findings also show us that the American Indians had begun, if not had already been, making moccasins. About a decade into the century, large heels gave way to a simple shorter heel and slip on backless shoes became fashionable. A decade after that boots were the rage for men; boots that, in some cases, may have run all the way up to the knee, but could run up onto the thigh. These boots had a wide top that sometimes overlapped the top of the boot. Because of the heels tendency to dig into the dirt, wooden shoes or clogs were often worn over the boots, showing that fashion often trumped practicality.

• Native Tech- An overview of footwear worn by the Native American people.

• Colonial Williamsburg- Footprints on the Past Tracking the First English-American Shoemakers

• Tap History- The fusion of British Isles clog and step dancing with the rhythms of West African drumming and dancing in colonial times created an ever-evolving art form called tap.

• Head over Heels- The history of shoes – The 1600’s.

• Male Footwear- 17^th Century history of shoes worn by men.

• Theatrical Shoemakers- Images of 17^th century footwear with the names of each shoe/boot. These advanced shoes styles speak to the emphasis put on fashion at that time, it was important to people of status to display their wealthy and power with every footstep.

1700’s

During the 1700’s, boots were temporarily relegated to those who rode horses and another new style of shoe became outrageously popular. The shoes had lower heels, wider toes and were usually made of black leather. Large buckles were added to the tops of men’s shoes, and often the short heel was colored red. There were also more options for women at the time; they could wear an open back slipper or clog, close-toed shoes that usually tied at the ankle, or a slip over protective shield for shoes that were worn outdoors. The style included high curved heels and pointy toes. Buckles were often added to enhance women's shoes, not unlike the men’s shoe of the day. Towards the end of the century, the heels disappeared, and a more slipper-like shoe emerged and toes widened. Around 1790, boots were reintroduced as high fashion and the cycle from old to new to old began again.

• Shoes Through the Ages- Shoes through the ages. Images and descriptions of women’s shoe styles from 1710 to 1890

• The History of 18^th Century Shoes- Shoe designs were elaborately fashioned and new embellishments added to the style of the 18^th century.

• Hear Ye! Hear Ye!- An article about the clothing of the 1700’s, including sections on men and women’s shoes.

• Old Sturbridge Village- Take a look inside a period-accurate shoemakers shop and learn more about shoes.

• A Brief History of the Pointe Shoe- Learn what it takes to make the ballet shoes we see on stage.

• 1700s French and American Shoes- Images of French and American shoe styles of the 1700’s, while each has some common factors, the shoes are distinctly different and reflect the culture and popular styles of France and the Americas during the 1700's

1800’s

A low heel, or flat, was very popular in Great Britain, made of soft cloth or silk, they were accented with bows or rosebuds. They were flimsy and easily wore out, as were the sandals of that time, which crisscrossed up the calf with ribbon. For outdoor use, people of the 1800s often wore the half boot, and then around 1810 fashionable women began wearing a flat boot like the men, which was made of colored leather or had colored fabric. Heels were only ever word for a tiled promenade.

• Stepping Out- An article that discusses the trends and fashion of footwear over the years.

• Victorian Men's Fashiona- Learn about the style of men's footwear of the the late 1800s.

• Elastic-sided boots Worn By Queen Victoria- An article about the stylish shoes of Queen Victoria and a description of popular shoe styles of the mid to late 1800s.

• Shoes of the 19^th Century- Shoes in the 1800s have very distinct characteristics, read this article to learn more about the different styles of that time period and how they influenced society at that time.

• Teensy-Weensy, Itty-Bitty Shoes- An article about women and their obsession with shoes during the 1800s. Women's love for footwear is nothing new, these fabulous styles were highly coveted by women of the late 1800s.

• The Impact of Machinery on Making Shoes- The industrial revolution did not just create new jobs and a boom in city life, it also brought us new styles of footwear and different ways of manufacturing the shoes of the time.

1900’s

The beginning of the 20^th century in the shoe world, pretty much followed the trends of the late 19^th century, with a shallow-cut pump made from patent leather and a large flattened bow. This style was still being worn well into the 1920s, but the variety of footwear available greatly increased and along with it came more comfortable options. The mid-1900’s also brought design that acknowledged the fact that people had a left and right foot, previously only the rich who had custom shoes made had such shoes available. Up until this time, a shoe could be worn on either foot indiscriminately and the straight design made them rather uncomfortable, but with the invention of shoes that curved to one side or the other, at a good price; people flocked to buy them. Also around this time was the American invention, of machines that could produce shoes quickly, which also brought down costs. By this time, the rubber heel was common and America had become the leader in shoe production.

• Children's Footwear of the 1900s- Photos and descriptions of children’s footwear from the early 1900’s.

•Mid-Manhatten Picture Collection- An advertisement from the 1900s for children's shoes; although, the BOGO sale was not yet popular.

• Vads Visual Arts History of Shoes- A gallery of period shoes by the London College of Fashion.

• Century in Shoes- A full article on the shoes of the 1900’s with some images, also a dial a decade feature to look at shoes throughout the century.

• Bata Shoe Museum- Footwear through the ages, from the pump to the Japanese Geta, includes images.

• Turn of the Century- These classic shoes may be out of style now, but were quiet popular during the early 1900s.

1910’s

Heels were in for women; with winter shoes offering a boot like upper that buttoned. There were dance shoes that had crisscross ankle straps, and also low-heeled lace shoes with rounded toes. Men had dress shoes that were usually black and simple, but boots were also still in fashion. In 1917, a new style of tennis shoe is introduced and makes it popular as everyday footwear. It was made by Converse and called the All-Star basketball shoe, it had a brown canvas upper and black rubber soles. The contrast of this new shoe side by side with the button up boot was almost like separating centuries.

• Across the Ages- Links to sites about the styles of the 1900’s.

• Powerhouse Museum- Images of shoe collections with categorized links

• Chinese Footbinding- Lotus shoes, foot binding of the Chinese was both painful and highly fashionable during this time period, it has since been outlawed.

• Converse Shoes- History of the Converse “Chuck” tennis shoe. This shoe style has withstood the test of time and has been consistently popular.

• Foot Wear History- Spanning from the 1870 to 1914, shoe style have evolved and changed to meet the many needs of men and women.

• Costume Gallery- Whether it is a pump, and boot, or an oxford, men's shoes have changed considerably. Check out the men's shoe catalog of 1910.

1920’s

With the end of the war, optimism was up, and so were stocks. People wanted to spend and shoes were a way to spend! Shoes for women were classier, with a slightly rounded toe, and designed to be less clunky. The ankle strap, or T-strap, was all the rage. Popular men’s shoes were lace up black patent leather for dress, and for casual a two-tone oxford was the style of choice; often with fringed or baroque tongues. Classy and sharp was the look people were going for and the latest styles of the time definitely reflected the importance of fashion.

• Ladies Shoes 1920 to Now- An exhibit of ladies shoes 1920 to present from the Oakland Museum of CA.

• Fads & Fashions From the 1920's- The 1920's saw a new wave of fashion and footwear with the arrival of the Flappers.

• Understanding teh Hostory of Footware- A look at the most popular shoes designed in the 20^th century.

• European Peasant Footwear- A distinction between upper and lower class has always existed, learn about the footwear that helped distinguish the common people of Europe.

• Brown Wedge Boots for Neutral Looks- The evolution of the popular 20^th century boot continues to appeal to fashion savvy consumers today.

• The German Leather Museum- Learn about the history and evolution of European style shoes.

1930’s

Slip on shoes, or penny loafers, made their first appearance in the 1930’s and platform or lift shoes become popular in England and the United States. 1939 brought a sensible laced shoe, but with a slanted wedge and square toe. Despite the stock market crash, fashion was was still a flourishing market and continued to do well, despite a fluctuating economy. Head to toe glamor was in and drama was on call.

• Nevada Culture- images and descriptions of shoes from 1910 to 1939

• The History of Foot Trouble- Women and men have long endured the pain caused by the most fashionable of shoes.

• Shoe-Fitting Fluoroscope- This page has a photo of a shoe-fitting Fluoroscope, shoe-fitting test data page and an advertisement for Dr. Scholls testing for proper shoe fitting.

• The Height of Fashion: Platform Shoes Then and Now- Explore the ups and downs of platform shoes throughout history.

• Shoes Between 1935-1945- Women's fashion experienced a bit of a golden era during this time and many specialized and customized shoes were available.

• Story of Shoes- A Video of making a shoe in the 1930’s.

1940’s

Throughout the decade, men ran with Oxfords, Brogues and moccasins, with college students tended to wear saddle shoes. Many women wore slipper-like open toes and shoes with no laces were what to wear when going out on the town. Chunky heels and closed toes were considered too dressy for everyday wear. Leather had been restricted for the military, so shoes were made of reptile skins, with heels made of wood or cork.

• Vintage 1940's High Top Basketball Shoes- Not only were women's styles different, but athletic shoes also were very popular and continued to be produced by Converse.

• 1940's- commentary with 40’s photos of shoes depicting popular styles and trends in the UK.

• In The Mood- Images of 1940 fashion including high-heeled shoes that were a must-have for women of the 1940s.

• The People History- 1940’s fashions with images and prices comparisons for popular products of the time, including shoes.

1950’s

Shoes were conservative in the 1950’s, for the most part, but stiletto heels that had been introduced back in the 40’s and were now very popular. Also, a flash from the past (1930’s) was the Saddle shoe, which was a white with black, middle laced shoe worn by both men and women. Men’s shoes continued to be oxfords, brogues and loafers, pretty much the same shoes of the 1940’s. Teenage boys in America however, had turned “preppy” and loved to wear the All Star basketball shoe; while British teens preferred the Winkle Picker, which was a pointed low boot. Another popular shoe for young people was the desert boot, which was more of a high shoe made of suede.

• Fifties Glamour- Stiletto Heeled Pointed Toe 1950's Shoes and other fashions of the 1950’s.

• The History of 1950s Clothing- The best way to understand current styles is to look at what has been most popular in the past.

• Saddle Shoes- One of the most popular shoes of all time, the Saddle Shoes has been recreated in a number of different forms.

• History of Footwear- Stylish fashion of the 1950s and throughout history.

• 50's Saddle Shoes- No matter if they are for guys or gals, Saddle Shoes have been widely popular for both sexes and have evolved considerably over the years.

• History of Shoes 1950s-1960s- Vanish Magazine presents photos of popular 1950's styles for men and women.

1960’s

Ugg boots came onto the scene, as well as high fashion go-go boots in the 60’s. The times were free and loose, and many people turned to simpler, more comfortable footwear, like moccasins, around this same time. Sport shoes also became more comfortable with the introduction of leather uppers to basketball shoes. Little girls wore glossy strap shoes and slip on shoes was quite popular with young women.

• Ever Wonder What It's Like To Walk in Their Shoes- An article on walking in famous peoples shoes, also image of shoes worn by Elton John.

• The History of Ugg Boots- Originally worn by Australian surfers, Ugg boots have walked their way into the hearts of women and men seeking out cozy footwear.

• Vintage Seattle- article and antique advertisement for boots, shoes and rubbers

• 60's Fashion- Learn what came in and what went out in the '60s fashion world.

• Sixties City- An article with images with loads of referenced to the shoes of the 1950’s

1970’s

Shoe styles and a boxier squared off shoe were common in the 70’s. Shoes like the earth shoes, which had a heel that was lower than the toe, were widely popular. Shoes were comfortable for the most part. A wooden slip on shoe from Doctor Scholls comes out at that time as well. For the disco lover, platform shoes were the way to go, some were chunky, and most all flamboyant, either in color or decor, some went so far as to have small aquariums in the high wedge heel. 

• Platform Shoes- Facts about women and men’s platform shoes, with images.

• Stanford Magazine- An article about the radically popular Nike empire.

• The Force Behind the Nike Empire- article on when running shoes came into existence

• The Shocking Truth About Running Shoes- An article on the anniversary of the 1970s earth shoe.

• The Eads Behind Shoes- An article about the people responsible for what was on our feet in the 1970's.

• History of Platform Shoes- People went sky high over these outrageously high shoes during the disco era.

1980’s

Slips on tennis shoes, or skate shoes, are huge in the 1980’s, and just about any other kind of low-rise tennis shoe. Ballet flats as shoes and Jellies were new to the 1980’s. Jellies are a gel or plastic-like shoe that is usually clear, colored, and has some sort of sparkle to them. Also popular among young people on the 1980s were lace up platform boots and another black boot that looked almost military. Beatle boots and Clunky Mary Janes, which are low heel dress shoes with a thick ankle strap, were common as are strap up the leg heels. The 80’s seemed to have a combination of light and comfortable to dark and utilitarian when it comes to shoes.

• Jelly Shoes- A fashion analysis of the Jelly and it's widespread popularity.

• Like Totally 80's- Jelly shoes didn't just stay in the 1980's, instead they made a comeback in recent years as '80s babies find a renewed appreciation for the old style.

•80s Shoes We Hated To Wear- While Jellies were very popular, they could also be very painful.

History of the Smart Shoe- An article addressing the contribution of Nike Cortez to the shoe industry.

• ELLE Flashback: 1987- A look at the fashions and styles of the late 1980s.

1990’s

This decade is best known for bulk, if it was a chunky shoe, it was fashionable. Grunge took over everything from clothes to shoes. Platform sneakers, Doc Martens and Mary Janes were some of the styles. Most shoe styles from the 80’s carried over into the 90’s, with boots or boot-like shoes considered the most awesome!

• 20th Century London- Images and information on football boots worn by John Salako.

• Vintage Fashion Guild- Images and descriptions of footwear from 1815 to 1995.

• Nike Just Did It- An article about Nike and their subcontracting in the production of their shoes

• Center for Non-verbal Studies- A study of men’s shoes and what they say about the man who wears them.

• Kidz World- 90’s fashion trends with images that mark the fashion of the period.

• The 1990's: A Decade That Changed Fashion Forever- An article about the important fashion contributions of the 1990's, a truly memorable time.

Present Day Shoes

The shoe styles of the early 2000’s up until now are basically a mix and match of styles from all other decades. While the bulky shoes of the 90’s have pretty much faded away, they still hold for some people as a symbol of their favored time and style; but one can expect to see anything from sneakers to heels, and from loafers to classic laced shoes when out and about.

• Yesterdays News is Todays Shoes- An article describing an innovative Taiwanese shoe design that uses recycled newspaper to create fashionable shoes. Just don't get them wet.

• Footwear News- up to the minute news on what’s hot and fashionable in the shoe world.

• Stilettos Heels Are Murder on Your Feet- The Mayo Clinic answers popular high-heeled questions about women's favorite shoes and how they effect your body.

Footwear, Boots & Shoe Trends A-W- Take a look at the most recent fashions inspired by past decades, from sleek and slender to chunky.

• The Shoes of 2009- The hottest shoes of 2009 will walk you into a new decade with style.

• Trend Alert: Shoes for 2009- See the most popular styles of 2009.

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